The trip of my life - Myanmar

Myanmar (true land of Buddha)

Before coming to Myanmar I didn’t know much, except that they have strict regime, Bagan and a lot of meditation centers. So after arriving to Mandalay from Bangkok (Since flying in is the only possible way to enter the country for 30 days! And the flight was 4h late, because Mandalay closed their airport) I bought a sim card, quickly found a place to stay, rented the bicycle and went around the city, but at that time it was already really dark. The roads were half from concrete and half from gravel, yet my bike withstood everything even the small floods near the river! After the first look around the city at night I already met a monk at an old Chinese monastery that spoke English and explained the history of the temple for me. Stopped by the river for a quick beer, a nice waiter greeted me politely and had a small chat with me. I quickly found myself enjoying this place and the kindness of people, not to mention a strange feeling of tranquility and peace. As weird as it seemed at that time, I drove my bike around till 10 pm and headed in for the night. 

Largest book in the world
One of thousands planks which make the largest book in the world	Mandalay at night

The following night I decided to wake up early and see the city a bit, but soon after I found out that the city is huge!!! There are four different parts of the city and each is special and different from the others, but after riding a bike for 1h and figured out I barely made it to the next part I decided to only visit the ones that are a little more special and interesting. So I went south to the wooden U-Bain bridge (I know the place, because I lost my camera lens cap there, haha) and the temples around, which was around 20km on a rickety bike and by the time I arrived there my ass was already feeling it. The bridge crossed over the wide river that goes through the city and on both side of the river you can see small local villages and once on the bridge you also see some houses that are under the water because of the water floods at the time. Yet all the locals waved and smiled when you passed, on the other side by some temples an older monk approached me and we spoke some words and without chatting too long he let me explore the place a little longer. 

U bain bridge
Village next to the bridge	Temples close by

After returning back to the city and going around the center and other interesting places and temples I decided I want to see what’s outside of the city and while I was eating my lunch outside, I found an interesting blog that convinced me to go to Hsipaw, a small town 200km NE in the middle of forests, for some interesting treks! I found a bus that was going there and off I went. This terrifying 5h trip went through mountains, jungles with no real roads, 100m and more cliffs and at the same time after 3 huge trucks that couldn’t move. I closed my eyes and try to fall asleep so we would get there earlier…. And it did work very well! Arriving there at night it was a little scary to say the least. Since I already had my sim card I easily found a place and used navigation to lead me there…THANK YOU GOOGLE AND NAVIGATION!! Of course like all the other hotels and guest houses in Hsipaw are owned by Chinese. I stayed in a mixed 6 bedroom and booked a 2day/1 night trek around the village.

The trek was guided by a local Shan (that district) person, there was also a nice Belgium couple and a Dutch student that were also in the group. The “path” was really dirty and wet since it was raining for the last couple of weeks. The path was a really nice one, taking us through the rice fields, local farms, through local fields, forests hill and countless amazing sight on the way we finally made it to a typical Shan village on top of a hill, 5h by walk from Hsipaw. The village on top of the hill consisted of around 40, 50 wooden build shacks that were slightly elevated, animals were running around freely and kids greeting you while you walk around. We were taken into a home of a family where we would sleep for the night. After walking up some wooden stairs you get to the main floor where you reach the “kitchen” or a bunch of bowls above the fire, on the left side was the main room completely in black because there was an open fire in the middle of the room with a round circle of pillows next to it. If you continue straight there is another empty room where they sleep on the floor and on the felt of that is where we slept, on a blanket cover with a mosquito net (what else do you need!). The food was prepared by the locals and the taste was some of the best food I tasted in SE Asia, and talked and drank by the fire while listening to the guide talking about the country and its problems. We laughed, drank and have a really relaxed and fun time together. The next day I woke up early and went roaming around, I did get lost for a while and had to run a lot to find the right path that lead me back and luckily made it on time for breakfast!! The path down was quite straight forward, just enough so we had a relaxing afternoon with my new friends when we got back. After talking a little bit with others I found out there is a really interesting train that connects Hsipaw and another city closer to Mandalay. So I set a mission to be on top of Bagan temples overlooking 2000 temples by 2 days. Most of them said it impossible since, the train starts at 8 and arrived at the other place at 16h and then you need to find and get to Mandalay which is another 2h ride and the last night bus to Bagan leaves at 8p.m. For me it was more than enough time to do it! And did i??

TIP: If you want to do the same trek, let me know I can ask the guy myself personally. He is really cool and an awesome person. You will definitely have fun!

Rice fields near Hsipaw	Village on top of the hill
Our place for the night
Views from the village
The way locals make green tea

Well let’s start with the train ride, first of all one of the people I met there told me that the train he was on derailed and they needed 5h to make it work again! After buying the ticket and you see two sections of the price: One is price of the ride and the other is the insurance! Aaaaaaa, No matter how strange it all looks, the ride itself was super fun! The train moves really slow and the whole time it’s bouncing and shaking from left to right, but not in an annoying way but in a way that makes you smile and can’t stop smiling! It was awesome!! Seeing the locals working on the fields, taking their brake to wave and smile to the passengers, the leaves from the nearby trees were mostly inside the train and after 1h of riding the train you were covered in leaves! J,  But the big surprise was ahead, that was the second largest train bridge in the world, riding on this train that sounds like a nightmare rather than something that would appeal to you! There is a long tunnel before the bridge and when you get out of it there is this small rain in front and nothing on the side but a 102 m fall. I still have fear of heights and every chance I get I try to crush this nonexistent monster and this was a great opportunity. Yet the first 20s I couldn’t approach a window, after I got some courage and leaned out and enjoy the view of the jungle and cliffs more than 100m tall. Stunning and terrifying at the same time and at the end of this 689m long bridge I still wanted it to last longer. Without me knowing the next part would be even more interesting, when I discovered we were going ZIG-ZAG up a mountain? HA? Yes, I was overlooking that bridge 6 more times from different angles until I realized I was watching the same bridge, not the smartest moment of mine! The rest of the path was as bumpy and shaky as the rest, but the stops made it more interesting with locals carrying numerous good on their head offering to sell some. It was like window shopping, but actually shopping through a window!!

	The great bridge
The view from top of the bridge

We arrived around 16h at Pyin Oo Lwin where my next goal was to find a ride to the capital ASAP, which was actually much easier than I thought, I actually found a ride at the train station for some 2 EUR in the back of a Jeepney (Like a pickup truck, but a roof for luggage). I was riding with 2 French guys and a girl from Belgium. I didn’t where one French guy disappeared to, but later the girl told me he was on top riding in the luggage area, of course you know what I did…First I tried to ride down where the rest were and at half I jumped up and joined the guy. It was one of the best experiences ever, feeling the adrenalin, speed, and the view going down towards the city made you feel like you were flying. I loved it!!Was it dangerous? Yes, but in reality I felt safer seeing what was in front of me than in the back where I didn’t see anything but the guy hanging from the side signaling something to the driver.

Bottom

Top

Once in capital I quickly set of to find a bus station that goes to Bagan, but once again you actually don’t have to do anything since as a white guy in Asia, people will find you! I friendly motorcycle driver found me walking around and offered me to drive me to the bus station on the other side of the city for 4 EUR…going once, going twice…well dohhh SOLD! After a 30min ride and a nice conversation I was dropped off at the station with 2h to spare, Easy breeze! Luckily the bus ride was comfortable enough to take a good rest…until 3a.m when I was awaken by the driver!!Since the taxi drivers there offered me a deal that was too expensive I decided to wait there until around 5a.m. (I had time since the sunset was at 5:30), luckily I was approached by other taxi drivers who chatted there with me and offered me a special leaf with something inside that they all used to keep awake, I saw it everywhere and always wanted to try it and finally I did. Tasted like shit and you have to spit this red thing out, little by little and it is really bad for your teeth. Anyways it was an experience, but I prefer green tea, energy drink or coffee J. I found a lost French tourist who shared a taxi with me to the city and to the temple where I could look at the sunrise. We got there a little early, but perfect. As the sun was rising you could see more and more temples and each time you would turn around there would be more, unimaginable and something from the movies. Soon I was in the middle of a valley surrounded by around 2000 temples, simply an extraordinary feeling. Breathtaking!

Sunrise

I went to the new part (much cheaper the old Bagan) really fast, found a place to stay, rented an e-bike and off I was with the whole day of riding between the temples left. The lady where I stayed gave a map, I didn’t even look at a map but just randomly ZIG-ZAG between them and enjoying the feeling of looking left and right, temples everywhere. You feel like you are alone there, no one around and after a couple of really loud screaming sessions I finally relaxed and stared to explore these little baby temples. Most of these temples has someone who takes care of it and sells their own paintings. Many of them were ready to share their stories and listen to mine as well. This is where it hit me. I have never met anyone who would take their time to tell you their story and then listen to yours, they took their time to listen and try to understand and not once did anyone judge my life or was noticeably jealous of our lives. For 27 years only my good friends took their time to listen to me and my story, yet this stranger out of nowhere did just that. I asked him if he takes this much time with everyone and he plainly answered: “only when I have time. In life we never stop learning and each person has a story to tell”. This is what I miss in Europe, people who are naturally nice, friendly, open-minded and ready to learn! Moving on… I met many people like that that day. After a long day riding the e-bike it ran out of battery and off I was pushing it back to the city. Bamm, it wasn’t more than 5 min when a small truck stopped, two guys jumped out and without saying anything lifted the bike and put it on the truck. In shock I starred and just watched, the older man waived me to go inside the car. For some reason I can’t explain I trusted them and went in the back, he asked me where I rented it and the next thing I know we were there and they put it down and as I was trying to pay them for their trouble he just smiled and told me to save that for something I really needed. WHAT!!!!WHERE AM I???

One of the temples in Bagan

Later that night I decided to take the night bus to Inle lake on the East of Bagan. I couldn’t understand these people and why I found them so interesting. That’s when I remembered a person who stopped me when I was riding my bike in the capital, he said: “We don’t need much money to have a happy life, we just need to love and love will come back”. We actually had a long conversation in the middle of the road, and then a police officer joined and a couple other people passing by, so interesting!! If you know me well you know I’m a really deep person and I like to think about various life aspects and how to find yourself, etc. (I’ll save that for a book :P). Taking that night bus made me realize a couple of things I didn’t see before and in a way broaden my horizon! And then I feel asleep, haha

Inle lake is another tourist attraction in Myanmar, which I didn’t plan to visit but had time and thought it would be a great day trip. Arriving at 4 a.m. I found a small eatery and ordered some local dishes while I waited for the tourist office and the washing clothes shop to open. After I quickly went around to find the cheapest way to get to Yangon by another night bus (by that time I used wet towels to take a shower), and take my clothes to be washed. Once again it took around 30min to find both and off I was to the long boats for a day trip around the lake. 

The lake is situated between two hills and it is a home for many people. Basically it is known for people who live and grow tomatoes and other things inside. Sharing the long boat with two young Chinese (again, is someone trying to tell me something?) for only 4EUR per piece was an offer I couldn’t refuse. The long boat is powered by a fast motor, while you sit on the bottom of the boat cruising through the lake surrounded in the beautiful nature, yet another great moment. Watching people on long boats standing and pedaling with their leg (not hands) and huge cone looking nets. One of those things you see in the pictures, but only in person is so much better. After a couple of stops and sightseeing we stumbled upon a little issue. The boat driver started to take us to some random house’s trying to sell us their goods, but luckily everyone on the boat has been in China and we all knew where this was heading and stopped the driver before a next one ever entered his mind. I googled some other villages to see when the two Chinese girls went all crazy on the guy, luckily found a couple more interesting places. One of them was also a cabin with longneck women tribe, which was just scary and it seemed like they were there against their will! But all in all an experience that should not me skipped!

TIP: There are also some amazing treks around the lake that some of my friends have been on, worth taking a look into that as well!

Two Chinese and I….we found each other again	The villages on water
Typical rowing with a foot
I LOVE YOU, YOU AMAZING TEA	The city next to Inle lake

Next station was Yangon. At that time, I really feel in love with the country and the people. So I decided to join a monastery and meditate for a week. I had that on my mind for a long time now and was actually thinking about doing it somewhere in these three Buddhist countries, and I found myself best in Myanmar! First I went around Yangon and enjoyed the day walking among temples, lakes and monasteries.

The city center	I love these side roads
	The Royal palace
Temples around the royal palace	Just a random building that looked good

I went in a couple to ask if I could stay, but most wanted at least 10 days which was a little much for someone who has no clue about meditation or anything similar! It wasn’t meant to be I guess, so I went online and found one that struck my eye. I called there a couple of times and no one answered, so in an instant I decided just to go there and see if they accepted me (Even if it said to first send a letter). The monastery was a three hour ride south from Yangon. I actually arrived there at around 8 p.m. and then found a person to drive me there on the back of him motorcycle. They place was huge and I had no idea where to go, by some luck I found the international office in the first time (I said it had to be faith) and I came just as a monk was getting ready to go to bed. But …

The Pa-Auk Monastery (My turning point)

As you guessed…He told me I came just in time! Welcome, come in…

I came there as a complete Yogi (newbie, beginner) and first the monk asked me some basic questions about Buddhism, meditation and other relevant matters. I didn’t have a clue to most questions, luckily the monk was understanding and took his sweet time to explain me the basics and rules I would have live by while in the monastery, for example: No consumption of meat, no food after noon, our living place and the surrounding has to be clean, live in basic conditions, no phones and internet, etc. I made an oath to Buddha I would respect those conditions and of I was to my room which I shared with another Frenchie. I’m glad to say he was the one who started the revolution of nice French people (As you know my experience living in France made me not like French). He was a 30-year-old, free spirited, open-minded individual that spent 3 months in the monastery. I decided to spend the first couple of days in peace and talk as little as possible to get the full experience so I didn’t speak much to him.

My schedule was the following:

3:30 am	Wake-up
4:00  -  5:30 am	Morning Chanting & Group Sitting
5:45 am (approx.)	Breakfast Piṇḍapāta  (Exact time of Piṇḍapāta depends on the time of dawn)
7:00  -   7:30 am	Cleaning & Personal Time
7:30  -   9:00 am	Group Sitting
9:00  - 10:00 am	Interviews, Walking Meditation & Personal Time
10:10 am (approx.)	Lunch Piṇḍapāta
1:00  -  2:30 pm	Group Sitting
2:30  -  3:30 pm	Walking Meditation
3:30  -  5:00 pm	Group Sitting
5:00  -  6:00 pm	Interviews, Work Period & Personal Time
6:00  -  7:30 pm	Evening Chanting & Dhamma Talk (in Burmese)
7:30  -  9:00 pm	Group sitting

So I would wake up at 3:30 a.m. in the morning by the sound of log hitting another log, at 4 a.m. I would head up to the upper meditation hall for the morning meditation (100 stairs up, uhhhh). The meditation hall looked like a big temple, with two floors and each floor was from wood and had no furniture but only pillows for sitting and mosquito nets around each sitting place. So you would come in and sit on your designated spot, sit in “stillness” for 90 min. Of course the first four days my legs were hurting badly and I was changing my positions every 10 minutes. The last 3 days I could hold a good meditation pose for much longer and would find it much easier to concentrate. After the first meditation session we would return for our breakfast at 5:45. Of course I didn’t know anything at that time and I just joined the others when they were lining up, just before the area of food distribution I was taken out and had to stand on the side, because I wasn’t a trainee but only a Yogi and they go at the end of the line after everyone has taken their food. Of course I felt bad for like a minute, but then I realized I’m only a human and we all make mistakes. So when others arrived I joined in and received the food. The food was made by locals and donated by individuals, even if at first sight the food looked like someone blended everything and threw it on the plate but it was actually quite delicious. Before eating we should say a little prayer for all those who made It possible for this food to be on my plate! After finishing your meal, you would wash the and put them back in the same place. Then clean the common and private area and get ready for the next 90-minute meditation session. At 9a.m. we would all meet at our designated teacher who will help you improve and guide you in your meditation experience. If I am honest the teacher wasn’t the best, because for 7 days I always got the same tip, like everyone else (Focus on the breathing and the point under your nose, ignore other thoughts). We prepared for lunch which was the same procedure as the breakfast. The funny thing was that some would face the wall and eat, on sit on hard floor and stare at the wall as they ate. At 1p.m. followed a 4h meditation session, first 90 min of sitting meditation, then 60min of slow walking meditation focusing on the breath and mind control and finally a 90min sitting meditation. After that we headed down where locals would give out freshly squeezed juice to give you some extra energy for the last meditation session at 7:30 p.m. This one was my favorite one because you closed your eyes when it was still daylight and when you opened them it was pitch dark! Loved that feeling.

From the monastery

So how was my meditation? Well I made a lot of progress, said by my teacher, and was able to stay focused on one point and ignore other thought for around 30min at a time and when I got distracted I came back to it quite fast. Since this was an Anapanassati meditation (focusing on the point under your nose and ignore other thoughts that come) it was quite hard at the beginning and I didn’t even realize how hard that actually is and that our brain works 24h, yet we never give It a break! I decided to used what I learned there in my life every day. So what did I learn?

This is where all the pieces came together, something I was looking for a long time. One of the reasons why I took this trip to China and Asia was to find a different way of looking at things and finding the “truth”. Well I can tell you for sure there is no universal truth, everyone has their own version of truth! Looking at things from a different perspective I found when I lived in China and here I saw there are hundreds more sides. Like a good friend of mine once said: If there are 5 people around a table and they are looking at the same glass, but they all see a different a side of it. Each of the experience at the monastery thought me something. Eating order would tell me you have to respect those who are elderly, always be grateful for what you get, I was fed for free because locals devoted their time to keeping us alive, respect all living things (one of the reasons why I eat less meat now), and the most importantly take time to stop for a while and ask yourself if you are happy?!Are you happy? Easy question that we never ask ourselves…

This might be a little heavy for some, but I’ll keep these deeper thoughts for some other time. I could and maybe one day will write a book about all the things I learned, but for now quick summary will do:

1.       Most people live like a hamster: We keep running in our own wheel looking for something new and exciting to keep us happy for a while. When it breaks or it’s not cool anymore or someone else has a newer version we become sad and buy a better one to keep that feeling going. Be careful what you want, because you will get it!
2.      Because we always think, we lose ourselves in our thought and think and think and think the same thing over and over again until it comes out a complete mess! We stay attached to something and can’t let go! So that stays inside and keeps coming back to attacks us when we really don’t need it. When a feeling or an emotion comes by, feel it, and let it go.
3.      We do what others do, because we don’t want to be too different or don’t want others to say anything bad about you and so we adapt. FUCK that shit, be yourself and if others don’t like it, why would you actually care?! At the end those will accept you for who you are, are really those who you should care about!
4.       We all love to gossip and talk about others, say what we feel is not bad. But is it right to say that to others and not to those who it actually applies to! Don’t judge people, because you will never know how they feel or why they did what they did! Ohh and don’t feel angry when you hear others talking about you behind your back, remember that you probably did the same to others as well! Karma is a bitch!
5.     Be happy right now and accept that everything that happened till now you were responsible and no one else!
6.       Crush your ego! Why? Well did you ever notice how defensive you become if someone tells you something bad about yourself, or feel so terrible for doing something so stupid and you know you are better than that, or you keep talking about yourself and don’t listen to other and learn something but instead you pretend you already know everything, or if you have more money or power and use it to make others feel bad about it, or you think you are right and other can’t be so you lose an opportunity to learn something new, etc. The list goes on, but remember at the end we are all human and underneath it all it doesn’t matter what and how much you have, but who you are a person!
7.       Many people go around trying all their best to impress someone or looking for anyone telling them how great they are. If you don’t love yourself, others thanks will only make you happy for a little while.
8.      No matter if you have a master’s, bachelor or doctorate degree, or have the best job in the world, or have a lot of money, or you are the happiest person in the world. Be humble and just because your life might be good or better at this moment, respect others where they are at the moment and be happy if they are, no matter where that is!

Well I can keep this going but I think you know where this is headed! I just want to thank everyone and everything for helping me to learn more about life, meditation, self-love and Buddhism. It is something that will stay with me for a long time. THANK YOU

TIP: If you have any questions or you need to get more information about the monastery you can check http://www.paaukforestmonastery.org/index.htm to find more answers.

Awesome Vietnamese	Entrance of the monastery
On the way to Bangkok

From the monastery I headed towards Bangkok and the route was stunning with huge rocks and cliffs coming out of the rice fields and trees growing on them. Simply an amazing area to explore in the future!!

These three countries thought me a lot about the Buddhist way of living and how and what matters for them. I find myself very close to these places, religion and way of living! Thank you everyone who made it possible to have this opportunity! I’ll be back!!

Next Malaysia and Singapore :)